A reflective climb film conversation that treats Dean Potter as a complex subject, not a legend.
Peter Mortimer spends this conversation on the hard part of making The Dark Wizard: telling Dean Potter's story without sanding off the contradictions.
The Nugget Climbing Podcast
Steven Dimmitt
404 episodes listed below
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Long-form climbing stories with real texture.
The gist
The Nugget Climbing Podcast pairs patient interviews with serious climbing curiosity. Episodes move from training plans and speed-climbing routines to first ascents, near-fatal recovery, competition formats, film stories, and the strange human stories that gather around rock.
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About The Nugget Climbing Podcast
The Nugget Climbing Podcast is a long-form climbing interview show with a strong feel for both performance and biography. It is not only about sending harder. It asks what training costs, what skill feels like on real rock, how ambition changes over time, and why certain stories keep mattering inside climbing culture. The show’s recent run moves across a wide range without losing its center. Dave Thompson talks about Leavenworth first ascents, applying strength on the wall, gym habits, rock movement, and personal agency. Tom Randall’s reposted training conversation turns programming into a practical self-coaching problem, especially for climbers who also want to spend their best days outside. Sam Watson brings speed climbing into focus through routines, Olympic pressure, world-record attention, and the simple drama of a race up a 15-meter wall. Charlie Boscoe’s episode looks at the Pro Climbing League and the attempt to make competition climbing work more like a professional spectator sport. Other episodes go deeper into risk and recovery. Melissa Strong’s interview centers on a near-fatal accident, the loss of several fingers, surgery, writing, restaurants in Estes Park, and the long return to climbing. Peter Mortimer’s conversation about The Dark Wizard treats Dean Potter as inspiring, complicated, and tormented rather than flattening him into legend. Christian Beckwith connects World War II, the 10th Mountain Division, old belay systems, gear history, and the early experiments that changed what climbers trusted on the wall. Carol Simpson’s return episode shifts the frame toward longevity, new chapters, yoga, balance, strength, diet, and the honesty of life after 80. The show’s strength is its patience. It lets a guest explain the route, the training block, the injury, the film archive, or the old story before drawing the broader lesson. The result is climbing media for people who like the details because the details are where the human part shows up.
Made for: For climbers who enjoy patient interviews about training, movement, routes, recovery, competition, and climbing history. It also suits outdoor-story listeners who like technical detail when it leads somewhere human.
What sets it apart: The show gives guests enough room to connect tactics with life experience. Its mix of elite performance, local climbing lore, injury recovery, film storytelling, and history makes it broader than a standard training podcast.
In their own words
Welcome to a podcast about performance climbing, self-improvement, and being a human being. 5M+ downloads. "One of the best long-form interview podcasts in the outdoor space." - Climbing Magazine
As heard by us
Based on 5 episodes we listened to · September 2026
Stephen Dimmitt makes climbing performance legible by tracing the choices, techniques and histories behind what happens on the wall.
Stephen Dimmitt approaches climbing through the decisions behind performance: how athletes train, apply technique, manage motivation and understand the sport itself.
Why you'd press play
Olympic speed, belay physics, and gym-to-rock technique become the questions you wish you'd asked.
Press play if you want
- an Olympian's mental process, with the four-second spectacle slowed down enough to study
- training advice that asks what you'll actually sacrifice before prescribing another fingerboard session
climbing training and programmingmovement on rock versus gym climbingfirst ascents and local climbing historyinjury recovery and resiliencecompetition climbing and the Olympicsclimbing films and documentary storytellinglongevity routinesgear history and alpinism
Talks about
Best episodes of The Nugget Climbing Podcast
Short reviews from the PlayNext desk, based on the episodes we processed.
Leavenworth history and movement theory meet in a steady conversation about turning strength into usable climbing movement.
Dave Thompson starts with Leavenworth history and keeps circling back to a practical question: how does strength turn into movement that actually works on rock?
A clear look at speed climbing and the thinking behind a world-record run.
Sam Watson reads as the fastest climber in the world and a current world record holder in speed climbing, and the conversation makes a strong case for why that event is so easy for outsiders to follow.
A useful training conversation for climbers who want progress and are willing to face the tradeoffs it brings.
Tom Randall makes this a practical talk about how climbers build training around real goals, not vague ambition. Stephen Dimmitt keeps steering it back to the hard question: if improvement matters, what are climbers willing to give up to make room for it?
Climbing history and World War II meet in a detailed, engaging conversation.
Christian Beckwith shapes the episode into a wide-ranging look at climbing history, climbing gear, and the 10th Mountain Division's role in World War II.
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Episodes
- 1
EP 307: Steven on The Climbing Majority — What I've Learned After 300 Conversations With the World's Best Climbers
Sep 28, 2026·1h 44m - 2
EP 306: George Lowe — Getting Too Close to the Edge, His “Magnificent Failure”, and Climbing at Age 82
Sep 16, 2026·1h 28m - 3
EP 305: Dr. Mohammad Ashori — The 5 Things That Will Keep You Climbing for Decades
Aug 31, 2026·2h 15m - 4
EP 304: Justen Sjong Returns — Unique Challenges for Tall & Short Climbers (And What Actually Helps)
Aug 18, 2026·2h 13m - 5
EP 303: Adam Ondra Returns — How He Prepares to Flash V15, and Why the Best Sport Climbers Are Also the Best Boulderers
Jul 13, 2026·1h 44m - 6
EP 302: Aaron Shamy — The Epic Comeback: Sending 5.14c After a 15-Year Hiatus
Jun 29, 2026·1h 42m - 7
EP 301: Matt Samet — Escaping Benzo Addiction, Rifle in the Early ‘90s, and Embracing the Moonboard in His 40s
Jun 8, 2026·2h 11m - 8
EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)
May 25, 2026·1h 1m - 9
EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing
May 14, 2026·2h 10m - 10
EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength
Apr 27, 2026·2h 8m - 11
EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard
Hidden gemPeter Mortimer comes on to discuss The Dark Wizard, his new four-part documentary series about Dean Potter.
Apr 14, 2026·54m·3 clips - 12
EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency
Stephen Dimmitt interviews Dave Thompson, a professional climbing coach at Evoke Endurance and first ascensionist of legendary Leavenworth boulder problems including the Teacup and God is in the Details, covering his origin story in the North Cascades and his philosophy on strength application versus raw training.
Apr 7, 2026·1h 47m·8 clips - 13
EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics
Hidden gemSam Watson, current world speed climbing record holder at 4.64 seconds for a 15-meter wall, joins the Nugget Climbing Podcast to detail his Paris Olympics experience, training philosophy, and life as an 18-year-old world-class athlete.
Mar 23, 2026·1h 55m·9 clips - 14
EP 294: Melissa Strong — Dying and Coming Back to Life, Having Her Arms Sewn Together, and Returning to Climbing with 7 ¾ Fingers
This episode features an interview with Melissa Strong, a rock climber and restaurateur who shares her story of surviving a near-fatal accident, losing fingers, and her challenging recovery journey detailed in her new book.
Mar 9, 2026·1h 31m - 15
EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance
Feb 23, 2026·2h 4m - 16
EP 292: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Repost from Patreon)
Hidden gemHost Stephen Dimmitt resurfaces a 2022 Patreon episode with Tom Randall, co-founder of Lattice Training, covering how self-coached climbers should structure a training program from scratch.
Feb 9, 2026·1h 48m·8 clips - 17
EP 291: Charlie Boscoe — Pro Climbing League: Comps Are About to Change Forever
This episode features Charlie Boscoe discussing the Pro Climbing League, a new head-to-head bouldering competition format that aims to revolutionize climbing competitions with higher quality viewing and professional opportunities.
Jan 26, 2026·1h 19m - 18
EP 290: Chris Schulte — Developing Your Own Style, Age-Proof Motivation, and Redefining Progress Beyond Grades
Jan 12, 2026·2h 25m - 19
EP 289: Christian Beckwith — The 10th Mountain Division, WW2 Guerrilla Warfare Stories, and the Birth of Modern Climbing Gear
Christian Beckwith, former editor of the American Alpine Journal and founding editor of Alpinist Magazine, joins the Nugget Climbing Podcast to discuss his podcast '90-lb Rucksack,' a deep-dive research project on the 10th Mountain Division and its role in World War II.
Dec 15, 2025·1h 50m·9 clips - 20
EP 288: Carol Simpson Returns — Life After 80 Years Old, Longevity Routines, and Training for a World Record
This episode features an interview with 81-year-old Carol Simpson, discussing her active lifestyle, longevity routines, and training for a world record in climbing.
Dec 1, 2025·1h 48m - 21
EP 287: Domen Škofic — The Red Bull Plane Project, Rediscovering Passion in Flatanger, and Trying Silence 9c
This episode features an interview with professional climber Domen Škofic, discussing his transition from competition climbing to outdoor projects, including the Red Bull Plane Project and his ascent of a 9c route in Flatanger.
Nov 17, 2025·1h 44m - 22
EP 286: Steve Moss — Why Discomfort Fuels Breakthroughs, Double V12 Days at Age 40, and 455 V-Points in 24 Hours
Nov 3, 2025·2h 47m - 23
EP 285: Tyler Stableford — Finding More Joy in Climbing, Breaking Plateaus, and Inputs Over Outcomes
This episode features an interview with Tyler Stableford about finding more joy in climbing, breaking through plateaus, and focusing on inputs over outcomes, with a promotional introduction for the new Nugget Training app.
Oct 20, 2025·1h 58m - 24
EP 284: Four PTs — The Case for Taking a Break, Heel Hooking Injuries, & Off-the-Wall Strength Training
This episode introduces the new Nugget Training app for climbers, featuring guided sessions, finger strength programs, and customizable workouts, while hinting at upcoming discussions on heel hooking injuries and off-the-wall strength training.
Oct 6, 2025·1h 25m - 25
NEW LAUNCH: The Nugget Training App is Live
The host announces the launch of a climbing training app, detailing its features and benefits for climbers.
Oct 4, 2025·3m - 26
EP 283: Adrian Ballinger — The Mental and Physical Grind of High-Altitude Climbing, and Lessons for Every Climber
Sep 15, 2025·2h 11m - 27
EP 282: Kerwin Loukusa — 4 Keys to Unlocking V13, Forecasting Perfect Conditions, & Embracing Beginner's Mind for Projects
Sep 1, 2025·3h 53m - 28
Something Different | Robb Wolf — Vitamin D, Zone 2 Cardio Hacks, Strength & Conditioning Timing, & Never Giving Up On Your Health
A climbing podcast host shares a segment from his new show featuring a health expert discussing vitamin D, Zone 2 cardio, and training separation for athletic performance.
Aug 25, 2025·37m - 29
EP 281: Eryn Phelps — Healing Anxiety & Trauma, Navigating Time Scarcity, & Getting Clear on What You Want
Aug 18, 2025·2h 39m - 30
Follow-Up: Alex Bridgewater — 3 Sports Psychology Skills That Will Transform Your Climbing
Alex Bridgewater shares three sports psychology skills to transform climbing performance, starting with values-based work.
Aug 11, 2025·31m - 31
EP 280: Stevie Hochbaum — Sending Germany’s First V16, The Toll of Obsessive Projecting, and Transformation Through Climbing
Aug 4, 2025·2h 3m - 32
Something Different | Can Soil Save the World? Climate, Health, and Big Ag with Rebecca Tickell (Filmmaker, Kiss the Ground)
An interview with environmental activist Rebecca Tickell about regenerative agriculture as a solution to climate change.
Jul 28, 2025·1h 47m - 33
EP 279: Andy Raether — Bringing Routes to Life, How to Be Stronger at 40 than 20, & the Woods Board
Jul 21, 2025·3h 12m - 34
EP 278: Jeremy Kiner (Patron Spotlight) — The GRINDS Program, Embracing Double Rest Days, & Regenerative Farming
Jul 16, 2025·2h 24m - 35
EP 277: Michelle LeBlanc — Project Pride 2025, the Political Pendulum Swing, and Meeting in the Middle
Host Stephen Dimmitt interviews Michelle LeBlanc about Project Pride 2025, a bouldering event for the LGBTQ+ community, and discusses the current political climate.
Jul 10, 2025·1h 15m - 36
EP 276: Alex Bridgewater — Sports Psychology Tools to Elevate Your Climbing Performance
Jul 7, 2025·2h 48m - 37
Something Different | Jake Muise (CEO & Founder of Maui Nui Venison) — Sustainable Food for Peak Performance
An interview with Jake Mews about Maui Nui Venison, exploring sustainable, ethical meat for nutrition and performance.
Jul 1, 2025·1h 15m - 38
EP 275: Yuji Hirayama — Japanese Focus, Improving Every Day, and the Secret to Staying Young
Interview with legendary climber Yuji Hirayama discussing his career, achievements, and mindset.
Jun 23, 2025·1h 57m - 39
Something Different | Eric Edmeades — Unlocking Resilience Through Ancestral Living
Jun 16, 2025·2h 24m - 40
EP 274: Seneida Biendarra — Onsighting Without Sight, Designing Better Gear, and Wielding the Empathy Gun
Jun 9, 2025·2h 31m - 41
EP 277: Something Different | Dr. Cate Shanahan — Vegetable Oils: History, Science, & How They Destroy Our Health
An interview with Dr.
Jun 2, 2025·1h 40m - 42
EP 273: Brendan Baars — Developing ‘The Nooks’, How His Big Toe Saved His Life, & Choosing Adventure Over Grades
May 27, 2025·2h 3m - 43
EP 272: To Send Hard Boulders Outside… Go Try Them A Lot — Steven Bergey (Patron Spotlight)
The host introduces a new finger training program called 'grinds' and then interviews a climber who achieved V11 outdoors without formal training.
May 22, 2025·1h 33m - 44
Something Different | Justin Nault — The Pitfalls of Nutrition Research, the Intersection of Health & Performance, & the Journey of Self-Love
May 21, 2025·3h 13m - 45
EP 271: Facundo Langbehn — The WHY Behind Hard Climbing, the Goal of Intention, & His Approach to Improving
May 12, 2025·2h 8m - 46
Follow-Up: Tony Yaniro & Randy Leavitt — Learning to Leavittate, the Equinox Photo, Near Death Experiences, & More
A teaser episode where the host introduces a listener Q&A with climbers Tony Yanero and Randy Levitt, discussing their friendship and stories.
May 9, 2025·39m - 47
EP 272: Something Different | Should We Be Drinking Fluoride? — Dr. Frank Zelko (Environmental Historian)
May 5, 2025·2h 18m - 48
EP 271: Thoughts on Kaizen's Episode, & My New Podcast "Something Different"
The host reflects on his previous episode with Kaizen and explains his reluctance to comment on every political news story, sharing his views on Trump and current events.
May 1, 2025·14m - 49
EP 270: Bob Wells — The Ultimate Vanlife Guide: How to Live Cheap, Comfortable, and Free on the Road
This episode features an interview with Bob Wells, a vanlife expert who shares insights on living cheaply and comfortably in vehicles, with practical tips for those interested in nomadic lifestyles.
Apr 28, 2025·1h 21m - 50
EP 269: The King of the Board Lords on Projecting Tactics, Protein, & Climbing 4 Hours Every Day — Sean Houchins-McCallum (sean911)
Apr 21, 2025·2h 8m - 51
EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life
Apr 15, 2025·2h 40m - 52
EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science
An interview with researchers discussing a retrospective study on climbing-specific ligament rehabilitation and training protocols.
Apr 7, 2025·1h 23m - 53
EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)
This episode features an interview with patron Connor Bowden about his 100-day climbing experiment, where he climbed 30 minutes daily to significantly improve his critical force and sport climbing ability, discussing lessons and applications for listeners' training.
Apr 1, 2025·29m - 54
EP 265: Katie Lambert Returns — How to Eat on a Climbing Day, Ingredients to Avoid, Nutrition on a Budget, Farm-to-School, & More
Mar 24, 2025·2h 19m - 55
EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama
An interview with climbing legend Tony Iannero, who pioneered modern training and redpointed the first 5.13b route.
Mar 17, 2025·1h 56m - 56
EP 263: Adam Ondra — A Conversation With the Best Climber in the World
Stephen Dimmitt interviews Adam Ondra, the world's best climber, sharing a personal story about meeting him at Smith Rock in 2018 when Ondra onsighted the route Just Do It.
Mar 10, 2025·1h 52m - 57
EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America
Mar 3, 2025·2h 41m - 58
EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path
Feb 24, 2025·2h - 59
EP 260: Caroline Ciavaldini — The Magic and Selfishness of Competition, Becoming Adventurous, and Gentle Feminism
Feb 17, 2025·2h 30m - 60
EP 259: Randy Leavitt — Developing 1000+ New Routes, the Anti-dirtbag Lifestyle, and Why the Best Day of Surfing Beats Climbing
Feb 10, 2025·2h 2m - 61
Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Mindset Shifts, Choosing Finger Training Protocols, & How to Be a Pro-environmental Carnivore
Feb 5, 2025·39m - 62
EP 258: Louise Shepherd — “The Lynn Hill of Australia” on Her Dirtbag Days, Flying Breasts, & How to Save Arapiles Climbing
Feb 3, 2025·1h 46m - 63
EP 257: Sol Wertkin — Surviving Cancer, a Richer Life After Climbing, and Saying Goodbye to Johnny G.
Jan 27, 2025·3h 8m - 64
EP 256: Stian Christophersen Returns — Training Smarter, Pulley Rehab, & Japanese Precision: Secrets to Climbing Stronger & Healthier
Jan 20, 2025·2h 23m - 65
EP 255: Dave MacLeod Returns — Moving the Needle on Your Climbing, the Value of Daydreaming, & How to Thrive in Your 40s
Jan 13, 2025·3h 55m - 66
EP 254: Best of 2024 (Including the Best of Patreon)
Dec 23, 2024·2h 32m - 67
EP 253: April Davidson (yeahapril) — Living With a Blind Man, a Decade of Addiction, and Seeking Your Fullest Life
Dec 16, 2024·2h 12m - 68
EP 252: Justin Salas — Life As a Legally Blind Climber, Building Mental Maps, and Being a Changemaker
Dec 9, 2024·3h 14m - 69
EP 251: Eric Jerome — The Benefits of Caring Less, Seeking the Minimal Effective Dose, and Developing New Boulders
Dec 2, 2024·2h 25m - 70
EP 250: Beth Rodden — Overcoming Fear, the Unwinnable Game of Climbing, and the Power of Human Stories
Nov 25, 2024·1h 59m - 71
EP 249: Chris Sharma — Finishing Hard Things, Reinventing Yourself, and Finding the Sweet Spot
Nov 18, 2024·2h 29m - 72
EP 248: Thomas Huber — Exploring the Impossible, the Stone Monkey Era, and Finding Freedom in the Mountains
Nov 11, 2024·2h 14m - 73
EP 247: Todd Perkins — Protecting Moe’s Valley, and What We Can Do to Help
Nov 4, 2024·35m - 74
EP 246: Fundamentals — How to Break a Plateau
Oct 28, 2024·1h 22m - 75
EP 245: A Political Discussion About the Health Crisis, Foreign Wars, the Future of Democracy, and More | ft. Kaizen Asiedu
Oct 23, 2024·2h 56m - 76
EP 244: Felipe Camargo — The Power of Drive + Creativity, Tropical Lines in Brazil, & Moonboard Endurance Circuits
Oct 21, 2024·1h 39m - 77
Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — Pulley Injury Rehab (Part 1)
Oct 17, 2024·32m - 78
EP 243: Fundamentals — How to Recover From an Injury
Oct 14, 2024·1h 17m - 79
EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter
Oct 7, 2024·2h 4m - 80
EP 241: Fundamentals — How to Train Your Fingers
Sep 30, 2024·1h 42m - 81
EP 240: Alex Megos — Post-Olympic Sending Spree, the America Tour, and Making Changes to Reach His Full Potential
Sep 23, 2024·1h 19m - 82
BONUS: Ron Kauk — A Call for Future Generations
Sep 19, 2024·43m - 83
EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training
Sep 16, 2024·1h 32m - 84
EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong
Sep 15, 2024·1h 22m - 85
EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training
Sep 9, 2024·2h 10m - 86
EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall
Sep 2, 2024·1h 11m - 87
EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain
Aug 27, 2024·2h - 88
Fundamentals Season 2 Kickoff
Aug 19, 2024·6m - 89
EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board
Aug 19, 2024·1h 3m - 90
EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest
Aug 12, 2024·2h - 91
EP 232: Natalia Grossman (Olympian) — Her Breakout Success, Overcoming Mental & Physical Hurdles, & What It Takes to Win
Aug 5, 2024·1h 31m - 92
EP 231: Colin Duffy (Olympian) — His Journey as a 2x Olympian, Comp Scoring & Strategy, & Future Outdoor Goals
Jul 29, 2024·1h 54m - 93
EP 230: Emma Hunt (Olympian) — Why Speed Climbing is Legit, the Mental Game & Strategy of Racing, & Chasing World Records
Jul 22, 2024·2h 12m - 94
EP 229: Shauna Coxsey (Olympian) — Climbing Harder After Pregnancy, Motivation vs. Commitment, and Letting Kids Be Themselves
Jul 15, 2024·1h 50m - 95
EP 228: How to Easily Improve Your Flexibility for Climbing — Josh Hadley (Lattice Training)
Jul 8, 2024·2h 31m - 96
EP 227: Nature Climbing — How to Prep Your Skin for a Trip, Hangboarding on Granite, and Building a Brand You Are Proud Of
Jul 1, 2024·1h 36m - 97
EP 226: Justen Sjong — How to Master ANY Technique, Send Faster, & Float on the Wall With ‘The Climbing Sensei’
Jun 24, 2024·2h 36m - 98
EP 225: Steven Gets His Dream Home Wall! | ft. Tony Bell and David Bress, Founders of Revival Climbing Coalition
Jun 20, 2024·1h 16m - 99
EP 224: Jana Švecová — Pushing the Limits of Female Bouldering, Finding Silver Linings When Injured, and Chasing a Lifetime Goal
Jun 17, 2024·2h 17m - 100
EP 223: Aidan Roberts — Navigating Pro Climbing, Establishing His Two Hardest Boulders, and Glimpsing Mastery
Jun 10, 2024·3h 35m - 101
EP 222: Paul Houghoughi — How to Bulletproof Your Knees, Strengthen Your Shoulders, and Maintain a Happy Neck
Jun 3, 2024·2h 16m - 102
EXTRA: Keenan Takahashi — Mustache Q&A, Highballing Near Misses, and Japanese Climbing Culture
May 30, 2024·16m - 103
EP 221: Keenan Takahashi — ‘The Gold Standard’, Learning From Limit Moves, and the Origin Story of ANTIGRAV
May 27, 2024·2h 36m - 104
EP 220: Alannah Yip (Olympian) — Alopecia, Finding Power Beyond Hair Loss, and Her Fight Against Disordered Eating
May 20, 2024·2h 8m - 105
EP 219: Fitz Cahall (The Dirtbag Diaries, Climbing Gold) — A Lifetime of Storytelling, Taking Authorship of Your Time, and Being Pro But Not Fancy
May 13, 2024·2h 32m - 106
EP 218: Mat Wright — Sending One of the World's Hardest Trad Climbs, 'Rhapsody' E11
May 10, 2024·1h 31m - 107
EP 217: A Masterclass in Relieving Stress, Sleeping Better, & Improving Focus Using Self-Hypnosis — Dr. David Spiegel (Stanford Psychiatrist)
May 6, 2024·2h - 108
EXTRA: Maddy Cope — A Masterclass in Endurance Training
May 3, 2024·1h 3m - 109
EP 216: Maddy Cope — Erase Your Bucket List, Embrace Discomfort, and Discover the Joy of Missing Out
Apr 29, 2024·2h 40m - 110
EP 215: Nathan Williams — Lessons From 100+ Days on a V17, the Simplest Way to Get Strong Fingers, and Static Shenanigans
Apr 22, 2024·2h 17m - 111
EP 214: How to Find Contentment in Your Climbing, Banish Shame, and Send Harder Than Ever — Neely Quinn (TrainingBeta, Life Coach)
Apr 15, 2024·2h - 112
EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects
Apr 8, 2024·1h 49m - 113
EP 212: Filmmaker Carlos Mason on Creating SENDING — A Look Behind the Scenes at One of My Favorite Climbing Films
Apr 1, 2024·1h 36m - 114
EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Blowing Up on Instagram, Why Pro Climbers Deserve to Get Paid, and Overcoming Fear After Injury
Mar 25, 2024·2h 8m - 115
EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Chasing the Impossible, Using Humor to Send, and Two Drills for Legendary Endurance
Mar 18, 2024·1h 38m - 116
EP 209: Graham Zimmerman — Going to the Mountains to Learn, the 100-Year Plan, and Imperfect Advocacy
Mar 11, 2024·1h 58m - 117
EP 208: Jesse Grupper — Optimistic Training, Last Place to Olympian, and Leveling Up His Bouldering
Mar 4, 2024·1h 39m - 118
SEND ALERT: Will Bosi — ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ V17, and What He Plans to Try Next!
Feb 29, 2024·42m - 119
EP 207: Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) — How to Rehab Finger Injuries, Build Bulletproof Wrists & Elbows, and Never Get Injured Again
Feb 26, 2024·1h 45m - 120
EP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns
Feb 19, 2024·2h 8m - 121
SEND ALERT: Kai Lightner — ‘Life of Villains’ 9a, Not Rushing the Process, and Building Jamaica’s First Climbing Wall
Feb 16, 2024·59m - 122
EP 205: Adrian Vanoni — Finger Crack Wizardry, Blue Collar Sending, and Lucid Dreams About Beta
Feb 12, 2024·3h 17m - 123
EP 204: Anak Verhoeven — How to Build 9a Endurance, Why Motivation Trumps Fancy Facilities, and Being Public About Her Faith
Feb 5, 2024·2h 45m - 124
EP 203: Jakob Schubert — World Champion to 9c and 9A, Adam Ondra’s Risky and Efficient Style, and Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’
Jan 29, 2024·1h 39m - 125
SEND ALERT: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training
Jan 27, 2024·1h 9m - 126
EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts
Jan 22, 2024·2h 44m - 127
EXTRA: James Pearson — Finger Training for 'Bon Voyage' E12, and Supporting a Family as a Pro Climber (Teaser)
Jan 17, 2024·12m - 128
EP 201: James Pearson — The Full Redemption Story, Proposing the Mythical Grade of E12, and Climbing Harder After Kids
Jan 15, 2024·3h 26m - 129
EP 200: Brooke Raboutou — An Olympian’s Mindset, Dancing on the Wall, and Competing Against Your Friends
Jan 8, 2024·1h 54m - 130
EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones — A Masterclass in How to Progress Your Climbing
Dec 18, 2023·3h 2m - 131
EP 198: Travis Tameirao — The Day His Life Changed Forever, Climbing V10+ With an Artificial Knee, and Taking the Wheel
Dec 11, 2023·2h 54m - 132
EP 197: Melina Costanza Returns — Harnessing the Power of Nerves, Praising Your Effort, and Choosing Good Over Perfect
Dec 4, 2023·1h 40m - 133
EP 196: Pete Whittaker — Chasing the Hardest Cracks in the World, Embracing the Suck, and Futuristic Desert Projects
Nov 27, 2023·1h 43m - 134
EP 195: Matt Segal Returns — The Recipe for a Peak Year, Cooking Tips, and High Summits and Higher Grades
Nov 20, 2023·1h 36m - 135
EP 194: Will Anglin — Why We Should Treat Climbing Like Baseball, and the #1 Thing All Climbers Should Do
Nov 13, 2023·2h 56m - 136
EP 193: Mat Wright — Risking It All to Send, The Power of Specific Goals, and Relaxing Hard to Climb Harder
Nov 6, 2023·2h 48m - 137
EP 192: Alex Biale — Bootlegging Wine, Training With Ollie Torr, and the Keys to a Balanced Life
Oct 30, 2023·2h 45m - 138
EP 191: Jesse Firestone Returns — Finding Silver Linings, How to Move Like Adam Ondra, and Key Benefits of Visualization
Oct 24, 2023·1h 57m - 139
EP 190: Josh Champion — Quitting After Sending V13, and Reengaging With Climbing in a Healthier Way
Oct 16, 2023·1h 55m - 140
Follow-Up: Martin Keller — Sending V16 at Age 45, Getting More Out of Less, and the Skill of Delayed Gratification (Teaser)
Oct 12, 2023·1h 11m - 141
EP 189: Lily Kral — Building a Board Climbing Gym, Exotic Dancing, and Being a Work in Progress
Oct 9, 2023·2h 16m - 142
EP 188: Joey Jannsen & Rich Breuner — Underground Hip-Hop, Cage Fighting, and Hustling ‘Til You Make It
Oct 2, 2023·2h 4m - 143
EP 187: Stefanie Myr — Miniature Carpentry, Becoming Polyamorous, and Finding “Church” at the Gym
Sep 26, 2023·2h 55m - 144
Four Women Have Climbed V15
Sep 23, 2023·3m - 145
Follow-Up: Katie Lamb — Box Therapy V16, and the Willingness to Persist (Teaser)
Sep 22, 2023·49m - 146
EP 186: Q&A 7 (feat. Ethan Pringle) — Rocklands Wrap-Up, Bat Hang Shenanigans, and Challenging Your Perceived Limits
Sep 18, 2023·2h 29m - 147
EP 185: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis — All Things Dynos, Why Boulderers Should Train Their Legs, and How to Enjoy Your Climbing
Sep 12, 2023·2h 22m - 148
EP 184: Nic Rummel — Embracing Thickness, Lessons From 9 Years of Hangboarding, and Doing Whatever It Takes to Feel Like a Badass
Sep 4, 2023·3h 2m - 149
EP 183: Jenn DeBellis — Chasing Dream Boulders, Turning Small Wins Into Big Wins, and Sustaining a Full-Time Job on the Road
Aug 28, 2023·2h 23m - 150
EP 182: Carlos Tkacz & Steph Letourneau — Lessons From 7 Trips to Rocklands, Being Good at Being Consistent, and Writing Novels
Aug 21, 2023·3h 6m - 151
EP 181: Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Benn Wheeler — Accidentally Flashing V13, Board Training, and Ultimate Dream Sends
Aug 14, 2023·2h 36m - 152
EP 180: Troy Fauteux, Austin Hoyt, & Bryce Viola — Times We Almost Died, Toe Hook Training, and Laughs and Sends in Rocklands
Aug 7, 2023·2h 10m - 153
EP 179: Cat Runner — Life After Winning The Climb, Embracing Trans Pride, and Sending Big at 5’0”
Jul 31, 2023·2h 53m - 154
Follow-Up: Ollie Torr — How to Improve Your Critical Force, Training Endurance at Home, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)
Jul 27, 2023·38m - 155
EP 178: Ethan Pringle Returns — Two Things He Does Every Day, Taking Your Time, and Honoring His Dad
Jul 24, 2023·2h 27m - 156
EP 177: Tiba Vroom — Confronting Fear of Failure, Being the 8, and Taking Responsibility for Your Life
Jul 17, 2023·1h 38m - 157
Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Lessons From Recent Diet Experiments, the 9a+ Goal, and Getting Stronger After Age 40 (Teaser)
Jul 15, 2023·56m - 158
EP 176: Eric Hörst Returns — Top 7 Most Common Training Mistakes
Jul 10, 2023·1h 56m - 159
EP 175: Ady Wright — The Pressure of Opportunity, Acts of Rebellion, and Eating Oreos for Breakfast
Jul 5, 2023·2h 41m - 160
EP 174: Bernd Zangerl — Developing World-Class Bouldering in the Himalayas, Entering the Easiness, and the Power of the Mind
Jun 26, 2023·2h 31m - 161
Follow-Up: Hazel Findlay — Top 3 Performance Hacks (Teaser)
Jun 19, 2023·51m - 162
EP 173: Louis Parkinson — How to Break Down Dynamic Movements, the Benefits of Indoor Climbing, and Cultivating Confidence
Jun 12, 2023·2h 10m - 163
EP 172: Brittany Leavitt — Seeking Change in Climbing, Unmasking, and Top Lessons From Teaching Kids
Jun 5, 2023·2h 13m - 164
EP 171: Leo Houlding — A Life of Adventure, Climbing Big Walls With Kids, and Epic Stories From El Cap
May 29, 2023·2h 30m - 165
BONUS: Ron Kauk — Spiritual Revolution for Evolution
May 25, 2023·1h 18m - 166
EP 170: Karly Rager & Casey Elliott — What the Data Says About Weight, Height, and Ape Index, and Which Metrics Matter for Climbing Performance
May 22, 2023·1h 59m - 167
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — Active Recovery: Everything You Need to Know (Teaser)
May 18, 2023·34m - 168
EP 169: Scott Johnston — A Masterclass in Training Principles, and Why Boulderers Should Train Their Aerobic System
May 15, 2023·3h 5m - 169
EP 168: Don McGrath — Rewriting Unhelpful Scripts, How to Tackle Fear of Falling, and Playing as We Age
May 8, 2023·2h 12m - 170
Climbing Gold — Hot Henry
May 4, 2023·42m - 171
EP 167: Alex Honnold — Epic Solos That Nobody Heard About, Near Misses, and Sh*tting His Pants While Free Soloing
May 1, 2023·1h 45m - 172
EP 166: Will Bosi — Sending ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17, Dream Projects, and Functional Finger Strength vs. Party Tricks
Apr 24, 2023·2h 4m - 173
Follow-Up: Katie Lamb — Sending ‘Spectre’ V14, and Breaking Down Crux Moves (Teaser)
Apr 20, 2023·30m - 174
EP 165: Charlie Schreiber — Asking "Why", Squeezing Lemons, and How to Have a Good Poop in the Morning, Every Time
Apr 17, 2023·2h 18m - 175
EP 164: Melina Costanza — Why Eating Food Makes You Awesome, Competing to Win vs. Not Lose, and Fun Facts With Melina
Apr 10, 2023·2h 30m - 176
Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — How I Rehabbed My Bicep Tendon Injury, and How to Make the Transition From Rehab Back to Training (Teaser)
Apr 8, 2023·38m - 177
EP 163: Johnny Dawes — Legendary No-Hands Climbs, How to Master Footwork, and Life Lessons From Omelets to Icebergs
Apr 3, 2023·2h 31m - 178
EP 162: Fundamentals — How to Structure Your Climbing Year
Mar 27, 2023·1h 2m - 179
Follow-Up: Emil Abrahamsson — Gaining Weight to Climb His First V15, Overhauling His Training, and Thinking Long-Term With Projects (Teaser)
Mar 23, 2023·40m - 180
EP 161: Sam Stroh — Botching It and Sending Anyway, and Biggest Lessons from Hard Boulders to Free Climbs on El Cap
Mar 20, 2023·2h 9m - 181
EP 160: Fundamentals — How to Pick a Project
Mar 13, 2023·59m - 182
EP 159: Tom Randall & Sam Van Boxtel — Why YouTube is the Future of Climbing Media, and How Much $$ YouTubers Make
Mar 6, 2023·1h 59m - 183
EP 158: Fundamentals — How to Improve Your Technique
Feb 27, 2023·1h 7m - 184
Follow-Up: Tim Emmett — Lessons From 80+ Days on Era Vella 9a, and Changing His Diet to Thrive at Age 48 (Teaser)
Feb 23, 2023·29m - 185
EP 157: Jeannie Wall — Getting Stronger in Her 50s, the Value of Doing Challenging Things, and Slowing Down to Go Fast
Feb 20, 2023·1h 52m - 186
EP 156: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Sport Climbing Trip
Feb 13, 2023·56m - 187
EP 155: Caleb Robinson — Reaching V13 in Four Years, Biggest Lessons From Competitive Soccer, and the Power of Consistency
Feb 6, 2023·2h 23m - 188
Follow-Up: Aidan Roberts — Sending Alphane, Training for V18 Projects, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)
Feb 2, 2023·40m - 189
Announcing YouTube + Win a Training Bundle!
Feb 1, 2023·5m - 190
EP 154: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Bouldering Trip
Jan 30, 2023·55m - 191
EP 153: Ollie Torr — The Secret to Finger Strength, How to Climb Like Aidan Roberts, and Staying on the Bus
Jan 23, 2023·3h 39m - 192
Follow-Up: Jordan Cannon — Sending ‘Wet Lycra Nightmare’ on the Leaning Tower (Teaser)
Jan 19, 2023·44m - 193
EP 152: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Climbing Trip
Jan 16, 2023·1h 1m - 194
Announcing Fundamentals!
Jan 16, 2023·5m - 195
EP 151: Anna Hazelnutt — Toe Training for the World’s Hardest Slabs, and Giving Others Permission to Be Real
Jan 9, 2023·3h 12m - 196
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — Cutting Edge Finger Training Ideas, and the Difference Between Active Recruitment vs. Passive Tension (Teaser)
Jan 4, 2023·26m - 197
EP 150: Luke Mehall — How Climbing Gave Him His Life, Creating The Climbing Zine, and Sustaining Creative Work
Jan 2, 2023·1h 15m - 198
EP 149: Steven on Kegels and Coffee — We Are Not Robots, As It Turns Out
Dec 26, 2022·1h 54m - 199
EP 148: Alan Watts (Repost) — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra
Dec 19, 2022·2h 26m - 200
BONUS: Alita Contreras — Guerreras Film!
Dec 16, 2022·44m - 201
Announcing Merch!
Dec 15, 2022·6m - 202
EP 147: Alayna Joy — Coming out to 400k Subscribers, Queerness in Climbing, and Compulsory Heterosexuality
Dec 12, 2022·2h 6m - 203
EP 146: Todd Perkins — The Mind-Opening Effects of Cannabis, Why Gratitude is the Key to Climbing Longevity, and Near-Death Experiences
Dec 5, 2022·1h 52m - 204
Follow-Up: Amity Warme — Sending ‘The Honeymoon Is Over’ in a Hailstorm, and Lessons From Another Season in Yosemite (Teaser)
Nov 28, 2022·21m - 205
EP 145: Katie Lamb — Breaking Into V14, Embracing Micro Beta, and How Climbers Can Be Leaders in the Climate Movement
Nov 21, 2022·2h 3m - 206
EP 144: Marisa Michael — Why Losing Weight Won’t Make You Climb Harder, How to Navigate Food, and Intuitive Eating
Nov 15, 2022·2h 15m - 207
EP 143: Matt Heyliger — Tissue Capacity vs. Biomechanics, Why Mobility Comes Before Strength, and the Eyeball Story
Nov 7, 2022·2h 34m - 208
EP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training for Alphane V17, the Power of Replicas, and Embracing Your Style
Nov 1, 2022·3h 3m - 209
EP 141: Robbie Phillips — Exploring Scottish Sea Cliffs, Keeping Things Fun, and Capturing Memories Through Filmmaking
Oct 24, 2022·2h 35m - 210
EP 140: Tommy Caldwell — Undone Lines on El Cap, Father-Son Relationships, and Exploring the Limits of Human Endurance
Oct 19, 2022·1h 52m - 211
EP 139: Lynn Hill — Breaking Barriers in Climbing, How to Find Self-Belief, and Challenging Social Norms
Oct 10, 2022·3h 16m - 212
EP 138: Q&A 6 (feat. Taylor Fragomeni) — Ways to Improve Your Climbing if Access is Limited, and More Patron Questions
Oct 3, 2022·1h 15m - 213
Follow-Up: Ned Feehally — More Beastmaking Questions, and Longer Hangs for Long-Term Strength Gains (Teaser)
Sep 29, 2022·24m - 214
EP 137: Drew Ruana & Cameron Hörst — Lessons from Recent Sends, Training for Bouldering vs. Sport Climbing, and Leveling Up to V18 and 5.15c
Sep 26, 2022·2h 27m - 215
EP 136: Dan Varian — High Angle Crimps, Silver Bullets in Finger Strength, and How to Activate Lazy Fingers
Sep 19, 2022·2h 23m - 216
EP 135: Alice Hafer — How to Train Your Mind Muscle, Tips for Staying Motivated, and Box Jumps for Power
Sep 12, 2022·2h 49m - 217
EP 134: Sam Van Boxtel — Creating Value on Social Media, Having a Strong “Why”, and the Road to 100k Followers
Sep 5, 2022·2h 18m - 218
Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist — How to Climb Hard Sport Routes and Improve for Decades (Teaser)
Aug 31, 2022·30m - 219
EP 133: Neil Gresham — Using Ballet to Climb Harder, Developing Your Finishing Game, and Extensor Training for Stronger Fingers
Aug 29, 2022·2h 35m - 220
EP 132: Rebecca Williams — A Deep Dive Into Fear of Falling, the Self-Soothing System, and Climbing Smarter
Aug 22, 2022·1h 56m - 221
EP 131: Ryan Devlin — Life as a TV Actor, Progressing From 11b to 12c in a Year, and How Pro Climbers Relate to Struggle
Aug 15, 2022·2h 50m - 222
EP 130: Stian Christophersen & Martin Mobråten — Writing The Climbing Bible, Finger Strength vs. General Strength, and Strategies for Improving Technique
Aug 8, 2022·2h 21m - 223
Follow-Up: Matt Fultz — How to Train for the Hardest Crimp Boulders in the World (Teaser)
Aug 5, 2022·24m - 224
EP 129: Dorian Evers — How to Navigate Different Stoke Levels in Your Relationship, and Getting Vulnerable with Your Partner
Aug 1, 2022·2h 4m - 225
EP 128: Callie Joy Black — Training During Pregnancy, Climbing Hard with Kids, and Being Your Own Project
Jul 25, 2022·2h 36m - 226
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Summer Training Plan, and How to Get Stronger on the Moonboard (Teaser)
Jul 21, 2022·38m - 227
EP 127: Jesse Firestone — Bouldering Tactics, Quantum Leaps, and Non-Physical Factors That Affect Our Performance
Jul 18, 2022·2h 45m - 228
BONUS: Michelle LeBlanc — An Upcoming 2SLGBTQ+ Pride Event in Squamish
Jul 14, 2022·23m - 229
EP 126: Devin Dabney — Getting Uncomfortable, How Climbing Saved His Life, and How Competition Makes Us Better
Jul 11, 2022·2h 36m - 230
S1E2: The Great Equalizer (Repost from The American Climbing Project)
Jul 11, 2022·29m - 231
Follow-Up: Alita Contreras — Sending Her First 5.14a, and Training With Lattice (Teaser)
Jul 7, 2022·22m - 232
EP 125: Zofia Reych — The Heritage of Climbing, Breaking Down Gender Roles, and What It’s Like to Be Autistic
Jul 4, 2022·2h 3m - 233
EP 124: Karly Rager — Mental Strategies for Developing Focus, Learning vs. Performing, and Building a Coaching Business
Jun 27, 2022·2h 39m - 234
EP 123: Magnus Midtbø — The Hard Work Behind Success, Go-To Climbing Workouts, and Takeaways from Training with Adam Ondra
Jun 20, 2022·1h 43m - 235
Follow-Up: Chad Andrews — The Pros and Cons of Living on the Road to Climb, and Having a Healthier Relationship with Money (Teaser)
Jun 16, 2022·33m - 236
EP 122: Jared Vagy — How to Prevent Knee, Shoulder, Elbow, and Finger Injuries as Climbers
Jun 13, 2022·2h 35m - 237
EP 121: Carol Simpson — Being a Girl in the South in the 1950s, Yoga as the Fountain of Youth, and Ageism in Climbing
Jun 6, 2022·2h 17m - 238
EP 120: Lea Volpe — The World of Paraclimbing Competitions, How We Perceive Wheelchairs, and Empathy in Coaching
May 30, 2022·2h 20m - 239
EP 119: Carrie Cooper — Thinking of Ourselves as Athletes, Research in Climbing, and Mobility and Warming Up
May 23, 2022·2h 37m - 240
EP 118: Chad Andrews Interviews Steven Dimmitt — Repost from the Clipping Chains Podcast
May 16, 2022·1h 56m - 241
Follow-Up. Joe Kinder — Sending 'Mamajamma', and What I Learned from 5 Weeks of Projecting with Joe (Teaser)
May 9, 2022·32m - 242
EP 117: Yves Gravelle — Lessons From Grip Sports, Basing Your Training on the Demands of Your Goal, and Top 3 Finger Training Methods
May 2, 2022·1h 58m - 243
EP 116: Paul Robinson — Coming Back From Injuries, Opening Up About Autism, and Working Boulders Top Down
Apr 25, 2022·2h 34m - 244
Steven's Blog: Mar '22
Apr 23, 2022·13m - 245
Announcing "Reflections" and "Steven's Blog"
Apr 23, 2022·3m - 246
Reflections: Mina
Apr 23, 2022·15m - 247
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — Hueco 2022 Debrief (Teaser)
Apr 21, 2022·39m - 248
EP 115: Jordan Cannon — The Triple Crown in Yosemite, Big Wall Pooping Stories, and How to Build the Skills to Climb El Capitan
Apr 18, 2022·2h 27m - 249
EP 114: Q&A 5 — My Current Finger Training Routine, How to Deal With Bad Body Image, and Golden Nuggets for Newer Climbers
Apr 11, 2022·2h 6m - 250
EP 113: Ned Feehally — Beastmaking, Long-Term Finger Training, and Climbing With Ankle Weights
Apr 4, 2022·2h 32m - 251
Follow-Up: Steve McClure — Sending ‘Lexicon’ E11, Projecting Tips, and How to Enjoy a Long Life of Climbing (Teaser)
Mar 29, 2022·35m - 252
EP 112: Favia Dubyk — Specializing in Lowball Roof Bouldering, Surviving Cancer, and Learning How to Dyno
Mar 28, 2022·3h 2m - 253
EP 111: Jerry Moffatt — Being a “Crag Rat”, Developing Your Mental Game, and What the Top Climbers Have in Common
Mar 21, 2022·1h 53m - 254
EP 110: “The Verm” Returns — Life Lessons at Age 62, Fun Facts About Birds, and Injury Stories
Mar 14, 2022·4h 7m - 255
Follow-Up: Josh Wharton — Attempting to Flash 'Freerider' on El Cap (Teaser)
Mar 12, 2022·27m - 256
EP 109: Martin Keller — How to Train on Rock, Your Subconscious Brain, and Lessons from 150+ Days on a Boulder
Mar 7, 2022·2h 47m - 257
EP 108: John Sherman — Hueco Tanks in the 80s, Highballing Before Crash Pads, and Adding Layers to the Bouldering Experience
Feb 28, 2022·2h 4m - 258
EP 107: Tim Emmett — How to Climb Harder After 40, The Magic Formula for Climbing 9a, and Life Philosophies
Feb 21, 2022·2h 43m - 259
Follow-Up: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Teaser)
Feb 17, 2022·37m - 260
EP 106: Hans Florine — Speed Climbing on ‘The Nose’, Big Wall Tips, and the Evolution of Speed Climbing Competitions
Feb 14, 2022·2h 38m - 261
EP 105: Brent Barghahn — How to Retire Before Age 30, Extreme Unicycling, and How to Free Climb Big Walls By Yourself
Feb 7, 2022·1h 58m - 262
EP 104: Amity Warme — Crushing in Yosemite, Growing up in Gymnastics, and Eating More to Do More
Jan 31, 2022·2h 11m - 263
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — How to Train Based on Your Finger Anatomy (Teaser)
Jan 29, 2022·27m - 264
EP 103: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk — Chasing Flow State, The Role of Cleverness in Climbing, and Becoming a Mom
Jan 24, 2022·2h 27m - 265
EP 102: Matty Hong — The History of ‘Flex Luthor’, Climbing Waterfalls in Japan, and the Camera as a Gift
Jan 17, 2022·2h 2m - 266
EP 101: Nina Caprez — Being a Swiss Machine, Leaning into Womanness, and a Beautiful Story of Failing on ‘The Nose’
Jan 10, 2022·1h 39m - 267
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Training Plan for Hueco Round 2 (Teaser)
Jan 7, 2022·5m - 268
EP 100: Ben Moon — How Ben Moon Uses the MoonBoard, and the Evolution of Sport Climbing
Jan 3, 2022·2h 7m - 269
Follow-Up: Paige Claassen — Dreamcatching, and Learning to Celebrate (Teaser)
Dec 16, 2021·31m - 270
EP 99: Q&A 4 — Goals for 2022, Dating on the Road, and What I’ve Learned from Nearly 100 Episodes
Dec 13, 2021·2h 34m - 271
Follow-Up: Tyson Schoene — Building Champions, and Keeping Things Simple (Teaser)
Dec 11, 2021·31m - 272
EP 98: Kyra Condie — The Olympic Experience, Training With a Fused Spine, and Thriving in Organized Chaos
Dec 6, 2021·1h 51m - 273
EP 97: Austin Hoyt — Favorite Zones in the Northeast, Rediscovering Old Projects, and Being a GUNKaholic
Nov 29, 2021·1h 36m - 274
EP 96: Joe Kinder — The Love of Projecting, Leaving a Legacy, and the Other Side of Cancellation
Nov 22, 2021·2h 54m - 275
EP 95: Tyler Algeo — Starting a Climbing Gym in Africa, Climb Malawi, and Raising Black Sons as a White Dad
Nov 15, 2021·2h 11m - 276
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — When to Stick With It, and Climbing His First 5.14 at Age 47 (Teaser)
Nov 11, 2021·22m - 277
EP 94: Nathaniel Coleman — Preparing for the Tokyo Olympics, Climbing in a Sauna, and Kendama Training
Nov 8, 2021·1h 48m - 278
EP 93: Tom Herbert (Part 2) —How to Relax to Improve your Passat Reserves, and Tom’s Life Story
Nov 1, 2021·2h 32m - 279
Follow-Up: Natasha Barnes — Climbing Harder in a Stronger Body (Teaser)
Oct 28, 2021·23m - 280
EP 92: Tom Herbert (Part 1) — Eating More to Train Harder, Protein Synthesis, and Carbohydrate Timing
Oct 25, 2021·2h 36m - 281
EP 91: Craig DeMartino — Amputating His Leg to Climb Again, El Cap Stories, and Embracing a New Normal
Oct 18, 2021·2h 44m - 282
EP 90: Josh Wharton — Onsight Tips and Tricks, Training to Flash El Capitan, and Risk Assessment as a Parent
Oct 11, 2021·2h 16m - 283
EP 89: Q&A 3 — How My Training Has Evolved, How to Stay Strong on a Road Trip, and Life Mottos
Oct 4, 2021·1h 3m - 284
Follow-Up: Allison Vest — ‘Throwin’ the Houlian’, Mono Training, and the Periodic Table of Elements (Teaser)
Sep 30, 2021·15m - 285
EP 88: Ben Ditto — Early Climbing and Photography, Dynafit Dangling, and Adventures With the ‘Wild Bunch’
Sep 27, 2021·2h 49m - 286
EP 87: Alita Contreras — Learning Languages, Coaching Women to Climb Powerfully, and Translating Training Books
Sep 20, 2021·1h 46m - 287
EP 86: Dylan Barks — Spray Wall Sessions, RMNP Rampaging, and Recovering From an Eating Disorder
Sep 13, 2021·1h 42m - 288
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Summer Training Plan, Listener Q&A, and Steve’s Go-To Training Exercises (Teaser)
Sep 9, 2021·42m - 289
EP 85: Emil Abrahamsson — Trying Hard Projects, Hangboarding Two Times Per Day, and a Career on YouTube
Sep 6, 2021·2h 3m - 290
EP 84: Boone Speed — Training in the Hell Cave, the Grasshopper Board, and the Future of Artificial Climbing
Aug 30, 2021·2h 32m - 291
Follow-Up: Nathan Hadley — Two Routes on The Diamond (Teaser)
Aug 28, 2021·19m - 292
EP 83: Neely Quinn — Lessons from the TrainingBeta Podcast, Nutrition Advice for Climbers, and Kids vs. Houses
Aug 23, 2021·1h 46m - 293
EP 82: Christine Deyo — Learning Creativity, Fontainebleau Circuits, and the Role of Diversity in Route Setting
Aug 16, 2021·2h 23m - 294
Follow-Up: Dru Mack — Play Hard. Rest Hard. (Teaser)
Aug 12, 2021·26m - 295
EP 81: Hazel Findlay — The Ego, Fear of Falling, and Mental Training for ‘Magic Line’
Aug 9, 2021·1h 32m - 296
EP 80: Robb Wolf — Prioritizing Protein, the Importance of Sleep, and a Case for a Meat Inclusive Diet
Aug 2, 2021·1h 36m - 297
Follow-Up: Ron Kauk — Listener Q&A, Who Punched John Bachar, and a Plane Full of Weed (Teaser)
Jul 29, 2021·33m - 298
EP 79: Tyler Nelson — A Deep Dive Into Blood Flow Restriction (BFR), Finger Training, and Doughnut Eating
Jul 26, 2021·2h 2m - 299
EP 78: Jason Kehl — Karate Screams, Chronology of Hairstyles, and Bouldering with Cargo Nets
Jul 19, 2021·1h 45m - 300
EP 77: Allison Vest — A Competitor’s Mindset, Fun Challenges, and the Secret to One-Arm Hangs
Jul 12, 2021·2h 2m - 301
Follow-Up: Shanjean Lee — Free Climbing El Cap (Teaser)
Jul 8, 2021·12m - 302
A Call from Ethan
Jul 7, 2021·33m - 303
EP 76: Q&A 2 — Party Tricks vs. Useful Exercises, Training for Long-Term Goals, and Octopus Wrestling
Jul 5, 2021·1h 12m - 304
EP 75: John Long — Yosemite Tales, the Love of Writing, and Opening Up About Alcoholism
Jun 28, 2021·1h 57m - 305
Follow-Up: William Woodward — Sailing Stories, Vanlife Tips, and How to Wash Dishes (Teaser)
Jun 24, 2021·32m - 306
EP 74: Tom Randall on Patience, Finger Training, and the Late Night Climbing Show
Jun 21, 2021·1h 18m - 307
EP 73: Kyle O’Meara — Favorite First Ascents, Experience vs. Strength, and Sharing the Love of Climbing
Jun 14, 2021·2h 39m - 308
Follow-Up: Katie Lambert — Zebra Stripes, and the Goal to Climb 300 5.13s (Teaser)
Jun 10, 2021·17m - 309
EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2) — Coaching Kids, Training Slopers and Pinches, and the Science of Collagen
Jun 7, 2021·1h 18m - 310
EP 71: Eric Hörst (Part 1) — TV Weather, Campusing vs. Hangboarding, and How to Train Your Core
May 31, 2021·2h 6m - 311
Follow-Up: Alex Johnson — Sending The Mother F***ing Swarm (Teaser)
May 27, 2021·24m - 312
EP 70: Steve Maisch — How to Structure a Bouldering Trip, the 85% Rule, and Hueco Debrief
May 24, 2021·2h 29m - 313
EP 69: Ron Kauk — Hollywood Stories, Camp 4 in the 70s, and Connecting with Mother Nature
May 17, 2021·2h 25m - 314
Follow-Up: Ken Klein — The 3 Things We Should Be Assessing As Climbers (Teaser)
May 13, 2021·16m - 315
EP 68: Steve McClure — Hitchhiking Stories, Tenacity vs. Strength, and Making Your Own Luck
May 10, 2021·2h 7m - 316
EP 67: Heth Jennings — Understanding Pain, Rehabbing Climbing Injuries, and Carb Backloading
May 3, 2021·2h 2m - 317
Follow-Up: Mercedes Pollmeier — Your Flexibility Questions Answered (Teaser)
Apr 29, 2021·16m - 318
EP 66: Mercedes Pollmeier — How to Improve Flexibility in 6 Minutes Per Day, and Cycling Your Training
Apr 26, 2021·2h 10m - 319
BONUS: Matt Sparks — Earth Day, and the Impacts of Chalk
Apr 22, 2021·35m - 320
Welcome to The Nugget Climbing Podcast
Apr 20, 2021·8m - 321
EP 65: Natalie Duran — Ninja Antics, Fear Conditioning, and Living Like a Superhero
Apr 19, 2021·1h 27m - 322
Follow-Up: Jon Glassberg — Sending ‘The Nest’, and Representing for the Big Guys (Teaser)
Apr 15, 2021·19m - 323
EP 64: Christophe Bichet — Climbing As a Metaphor for Life, Finding ‘Why’, and the Awe of Being Alive
Apr 12, 2021·1h 8m - 324
EP 63: Megan Mascarenas — Solving Puzzles, Pole Dancing, and Discovering a New Identity
Apr 5, 2021·1h 22m - 325
Follow-Up: Natasha Barnes — Listener Q&A, and Training “The Position” (Teaser)
Apr 1, 2021·38m - 326
EP 62: Q&A 1 — How We Get Strong, Dealing with Injuries, and Patterns Among High Performers
Mar 29, 2021·1h 52m - 327
EP 61: Chelsea Murn — How to Rewire Your Brain, Take Courageous Leaps, and Manifest Your Dream Life
Mar 22, 2021·2h 2m - 328
Follow-Up: Ben Herrington — A Guide to Developing New Boulders (Teaser)
Mar 18, 2021·17m - 329
EP 60: Leif Gasch — Becoming a Trainer, Mini-Goals, and Tackling Listener Questions
Mar 15, 2021·2h 37m - 330
EP 59: My Eating Disorder — Starving Myself to Climb Harder, and Lessons Learned
Mar 11, 2021·45m - 331
EP 58: Carlos Tkacz — Lessons from Teaching, a Free Training Book, and Self-Publishing Sci-Fi
Mar 8, 2021·2h 27m - 332
Follow-Up: Emily Harrington — Sending 'Golden Gate', Shoe Tricks, and Pancakes (Teaser)
Mar 4, 2021·10m - 333
EP 57: Dave MacLeod (Part 2) — Highlights From ‘9 Out of 10’, Flexible Programming, and Listener Questions
Mar 1, 2021·1h 51m - 334
EP 56: Dave MacLeod (Part 1) — Jumping Up 4 Grades in 18 Months, Fingerboard Rituals, and Nutrient Density
Feb 22, 2021·1h 42m - 335
BONUS: Blake Cason — Upcoming Retreats
Feb 18, 2021·25m - 336
Follow-Up: Blake Cason — Dancing with ‘Joe SixPack’ (Teaser)
Feb 18, 2021·11m - 337
EP 55: Kai Lightner — Disordered Eating, Flexibility for Tall Climbers, and Climbing for Change
Feb 15, 2021·1h 39m - 338
EP 54: Matt Segal — ‘Miami Vice’, Coffee with Benefits, and a Brief Stint with Paragliding
Feb 8, 2021·1h 23m - 339
Follow-Up: Mike Doyle — How to Maintain Finger Strength While Sport Climbing (Teaser)
Feb 4, 2021·15m - 340
EP 53: Jon Glassberg (Part 2) — MoonBoarding, an Example Training Day, and Foreign Haircuts
Feb 1, 2021·1h 24m - 341
EP 52: Jon Glassberg (Part 1) — Filming Emily Harrington on ‘Golden Gate’, and Pursuing V15
Jan 25, 2021·2h 5m - 342
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — Goal Setting and the "Three Good Tries" Rule (Teaser)
Jan 21, 2021·13m - 343
EP 51: Chris and Heather Weidner — Kneebar Wizardry, Projecting Tips, and Supporting Each Other’s Goals
Jan 18, 2021·1h 51m - 344
EP 50: Jon Cardwell — Projecting 5.15, Pre-Training Modes, and Bouldering for Sport Climbing
Jan 11, 2021·1h 46m - 345
Follow-Up: Lizzy VanPatten — 'Make Me Sanguine' (Teaser)
Jan 8, 2021·16m - 346
Darek Krol Memorial Clip
Jan 4, 2021·9m - 347
EP 49: Remembering Darek Krol
Jan 4, 2021·3h 14m - 348
Merry Christmas!
Dec 21, 2020·5m - 349
EP 48: Alex Johnson (Part 2) — Isometric Training, Getting Strong, and the Lock-Off Challenge
Dec 14, 2020·46m - 350
Follow-Up: Jasna Hodžić — Projecting 101 (...More like 401) (Teaser)
Dec 10, 2020·18m - 351
EP 47: Alex Johnson (Part 1) — An Olympic Dream, the Art of Failure, and Thriving in Your Own Skin
Dec 7, 2020·1h 34m - 352
T-Shirt Giveaway!
Dec 3, 2020·4m - 353
EP 46: Chris Kalous — Untold Stories, the Mythical Grade of A6+, and the Gift of Podcasting
Nov 30, 2020·2h 5m - 354
Follow-Up: Brittany Goris — The Wild World of Offwidths (Teaser)
Nov 26, 2020·9m - 355
EP 45: Dru Mack (feat. Nat Gustafson) — How to Stay Strong While Projecting, and Battling ‘The Crew’
Nov 23, 2020·2h 15m - 356
EP 44: Steven Dimmitt (feat. Ethan Pringle) — The Guy Behind The Nugget Climbing Podcast
Nov 16, 2020·2h 16m - 357
Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist — ‘Nu World’ and the ‘Event Horizon’ Project (Teaser)
Nov 12, 2020·9m - 358
EP 43: Emily Harrington — Projecting ‘Golden Gate’ in a Day, Embracing Fear, and Cupcake Batter Ice Cream
Nov 9, 2020·59m - 359
EP 42: Hailey Franklin Fultz — Strength + Nutrition, Fat Loss Strategies, and “Healthifying” Dessert
Nov 2, 2020·2h 1m - 360
Follow-Up: Drew Ruana — Recent V16s (Teaser)
Oct 29, 2020·9m - 361
EP 41: Tonde Katiyo (Part 2) — RIC as a Tool, the Value of Route Setting, and Keeping Training in Perspective
Oct 26, 2020·1h 14m - 362
EP 40: Tonde Katiyo (Part 1) — Discrimination vs. Privilege, and Making a Better World by Making Better Climbing
Oct 19, 2020·1h 36m - 363
Follow-Up: Ethan Pringle — The Stories We Tell Ourselves (Teaser)
Oct 16, 2020·19m - 364
EP 39: Matt Fultz — ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, Strength Before Weight, and Using Your Build as a Gift
Oct 12, 2020·1h 2m - 365
EP 38: Solomon Barth — Up-Down-Ups, Veganism, and Working to Live (and Make a Difference)
Oct 5, 2020·1h 27m - 366
EP 37: Simon Carter — Action vs. Landscape, The Taipan Closure, and Top 10 Climbing Photography Tips
Sep 28, 2020·1h 23m - 367
BONUS: Charlie Manganiello — Goals vs. Actions, Synchronized Swimming, and Magic Bullets
Sep 25, 2020·1h 21m - 368
BONUS: Alex Bridgewater — Getting Strong, Speed Walking, and Self-Belief
Sep 23, 2020·1h 26m - 369
EP 36: Climb Strong Team — 2020 Training Camp Mashup
Sep 21, 2020·2h 4m - 370
EP 35: Steve Bechtel — Changing Your Mind, Lessons From Studying Sprinting, and Creating Better Habits
Sep 14, 2020·1h 43m - 371
EP 34: Roger Volkmann — Five Principles of Life, Tough vs. Strong, and Devils Tower
Sep 7, 2020·1h 33m - 372
EP 33: Mike Kerzhner — El Cap’s ‘PreMuir’, Emigrating from Russia, and Discipline vs. Necessity
Aug 31, 2020·1h 45m - 373
EP 32: Natasha Barnes — Myths and Truths of Strength Training, Calorie Balance, and The Power Mullet
Aug 24, 2020·1h 59m - 374
EP 31: Maya Madere — Windsurfing, Endurance Training for Boulderers, and Trusting Intuition
Aug 17, 2020·1h 48m - 375
EP 30: Connor Herson — Fourteen 5.14s at Fourteen, Big Wall Free Climbing, and Power Training on a Home Wall
Aug 10, 2020·1h 23m - 376
EP 29: Tyson Schoene — Building World-Class Athletes, the Value of Competition, and Drills for Every Climber
Aug 3, 2020·2h 23m - 377
EP 28: Blake Cason on Radical Honesty, the Mindfulness Muscle, and Cycling Priorities
Jul 27, 2020·1h 46m - 378
EP 27: Audrey Sniezek — Corporate Work, Starting A Gym, and Telling Yourself You Belong
Jul 20, 2020·1h 50m - 379
EP 26: Ben Herrington — Go-To Training Sessions, Skateboarding, and Obsessive Compulsion
Jul 13, 2020·1h 41m - 380
EP 25: Nathan Hadley — Circuit Sessions, Onsight Practice, and Establishing the First 5.14 at Index
Jul 6, 2020·1h 24m - 381
EP 24: Paige Claassen — Pre-Send Rituals, Breathing Techniques, and Learning from Each Attempt
Jun 29, 2020·1h 5m - 382
EP 23: Jasna Hodžić — Pure Motivation, Practicing Your Anti-Style, and Enduring Setbacks
Jun 22, 2020·2h 21m - 383
EP 22: Justin Brown — Skincare Tips, Growing a Business, and Greatness vs. Insanity
Jun 15, 2020·1h 55m - 384
EP 21: Ethan Pringle — Lessons From Projecting, The Gift of Heartbreak, and a New Depth of Love
Jun 8, 2020·2h 2m - 385
EP 20: Chad Andrews — Financial Independence, Building a Craft, and Pursuing Your Best Life
Jun 1, 2020·1h 53m - 386
EP 19: Mikey Schaefer (Part 2) — Footwear for Big Walls, Rope Tricks, and the “Fix and Follow” System
May 25, 2020·45m - 387
EP 18: Mikey Schaefer (Part 1) — Meaningful First Ascents, Becoming a Jack of All Trades, and Building the Pyramid
May 18, 2020·1h 54m - 388
EP 17: Drew Ruana — ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, The Skin and Conditions Game, and Training Philosophy
May 11, 2020·1h 34m - 389
EP 16: Tara Kerzhner — Capturing Moments, Telling Stories, and Shooting What You Love
May 4, 2020·1h 15m - 390
EP 15: Katie Lambert — Improving Every Year, Balancing Multiple Disciplines, and Nutrition for Climbers
Apr 27, 2020·1h 35m - 391
EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist — Current Training Methods, Second-Go Tactics, and The Fins Project
Apr 20, 2020·1h 58m - 392
EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career
Apr 13, 2020·1h 40m - 393
EP 12: Mike Doyle — Lessons From 10+ Years of Coaching, Onsighting Tips, and Working Extra Remotely
Apr 6, 2020·1h 39m - 394
EP 11: Shanjean Lee — From Surgical Residency to 5.13+ Trad, Dating Your Climbing Partner, and the Importance of Self-Belief
Mar 30, 2020·1h 58m - 395
EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration
Mar 23, 2020·1h 45m - 396
EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training
Mar 16, 2020·58m - 397
EP 08: Kristin Yurdin — Building a Restaurant, Redpointing 5.14a at age 42, and Advice for Shorter Climbers
Mar 9, 2020·1h 15m - 398
EP 07: Ian Yurdin on Product Creation, Projecting Routes at Smith Rock, and Gratitude for Health
Mar 2, 2020·1h 58m - 399
EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream
Feb 24, 2020·1h 41m - 400
EP 05: Mark DeJohn on Using ART to Treat Carpal Tunnel Syndrome and Overuse Injuries, and Two Stretches Every Climber Should Do
Feb 17, 2020·1h 38m - 401
EP 04: Alan Watts — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra
Feb 10, 2020·2h 18m - 402
EP 03: William Woodward on Balancing Work and Passion, Rules for Life, and Ruby the Vanagon
Feb 3, 2020·1h 27m - 403
EP 02: Chris Wright — How to Climb a 7000 Meter Peak, Climbing with Heroes, and Thai Fried Chicken
Feb 2, 2020·1h 34m - 404
EP 01: Lizzy VanPatten on Practicing Gratitude, Building a Business, and Projecting Fear (and 5.12 Trad)
Feb 1, 2020·1h 33m